All photos by Bryan Dearsley / LuxuryUK
References to King Henry VIII are everywhere at the Thornbury Castle Hotel. There are mannequins adorned with authentic period costumes, several artworks that feature him and his wives, and even a topiary in the garden that’s being encouraged to grow into his distinctive image. This all makes sense when you learn that Henry stayed at Thornbury Castle with his second wife, Anne Boleyn, after claiming it for his own.
Now a 5-star hotel under the luxurious Relais & Châteaux banner, it’s easy to see why Henry would have taken such a shine to it. Located in the market town of Thornbury, Gloucestershire, this magnificent Grade I listed building is notable as the only Tudor castle in England operating as a hotel. And a stay here is every bit as extraordinary as that distinction suggests.
From the hotel’s grand octagonal towers, its tall Tudor chimneys, and elegant gardens, you’d likely not be surprised if the six-times-married Tudor monarch himself were to greet you at the door.
England’s Finest Castle Hotel
What makes Thornbury Castle so very different from other castle hotels across the country is its authenticity. You won’t find yourself bedding down for the night near a castle or in converted outbuildings on the grounds.
Here, you’ll sleep in the castle, in bedchambers accessed by the very same spiral stone staircases that Tudor royalty was known to have used five centuries ago.
Those painted coffered ceilings, those oak-paneled walls, those stone-carved fireplaces? They’re not the faux replicas of a manor house dressed up like a castle. They’re the real thing. And in all likelihood, King Henry would have admired them just as you will.
But before getting into the nitty-gritty of what to expect of a stay at Thornbury Castle Hotel, a little perspective (and history) is a must…
Built to Impress
Thornbury Castle was the creation of Edward Stafford, 3rd Duke of Buckingham, a man who could claim more royal blood than Henry VIII himself. A direct descendant of Edward III, Stafford was, at the time of construction, the second-richest man in England after the King. Granted a license to add battlements to what was then his country manor, by 1511, it was clear that Thornbury was intended to be an ostentatious display of wealth and status.
Featuring enormous oriel windows that were, at the time, said to be the finest in England, along with ornate red-brick chimneys that predate those at Hampton Court, the completed castle was so large it could routinely feed 200 people at mealtimes.
This grand display of power, however, was to prove Stafford’s undoing. By 1520, with Catherine of Aragon’s last pregnancy behind her and no male heir in sight, Henry and his Chief Minister, Cardinal Wolsey, grew uneasy about Stafford’s royal lineage and his potential claim to the throne.
A King Comes Calling
In April 1521, the hapless Duke was summoned to London, arrested en route, and taken to the Tower of London. Tried before a panel of 17 of his peers on charges of treason, he was found guilty and beheaded on Tower Hill not long after. Unsurprisingly, his enormous wealth and estates passed to the Crown.
Despite selling off most of Stafford’s estates, Henry, no doubt impressed with everything he’d heard about Thornbury Castle, chose to keep it for himself. His only recorded visit took place in August 1535 when he arrived for a ten-day stay with Anne Boleyn during their Royal Progress through the western regions of the country. An outbreak of plague in Bristol, just 12 miles to the south, extended their visit.
The castle subsequently passed through the hands of Edward VI and Queen Mary I, who returned the property to Stafford’s son in 1554. It went on to survive the English Civil War, fell into disrepair, and was restored in the 1820s only to be sold in 1960, ending more than three centuries of continuous ownership.
Thornbury Castle Hotel, Gloucestershire
The castle’s foray into modern hospitality kicked off six years later, in 1966. Chef Kenneth Bell, dubbed “the monarch of British restaurateurs” by the Good Food Guide, bought the property for £26,000 (around £629,000 today) with the intent of opening a country restaurant serving simple home cooking.
That all changed as Thornbury Castle evolved into one of the country’s most celebrated dining experiences, winning the Egon Ronay Restaurant of the Year award in 1967 and a Michelin star in 1974, which it held until 1982. Vines were planted to produce a house wine, and Bell’s kitchen became a training ground for future talent, including a teenage Nigel Slater.
When Bell’s children left home and he divorced in the 1980s, the family’s private quarters were converted into guest rooms, effectively turning Thornbury into a hotel. It has operated as a hotel ever since, changing hands twice before closing for a multi-million-pound refurbishment during Covid. It reopened in May 2021, exactly 500 years to the day after the Duke of Buckingham’s execution.
Accommodations Fit for a King and Queen
There’s no doubt that Thornbury Castle is as impressive today as it was in King Henry’s time. More so, in fact. Now a member of Relais & Châteaux, its 26 “bedchambers” are each unique and named after a figure from Tudor history.
After a smooth check-in process, I’m shown to the Lady Jane Grey bedchamber. Given the hotel’s age and the distinct possibility that you might wander down the wrong century’s old passageway, a staff member will lead the way. And, of course, there are no elevators here: getting to your room involves climbing the kind of curving stone staircase common in medieval fortresses, their design less to do with modern-day suitcases than 16th-century defense.
Once tackled (and it really wasn’t a chore), the stairs open to a landing with several heavy wooden doors. Mine, the Lady Jane Grey bedchamber, seemed to have the smallest door, but man, was it ever well built. Behind it, the scene was exactly as I’d imagined: equal parts historic grandeur and contemporary comfort, its four-poster bed promising a wonderful night’s sleep.
Surprisingly bright, the opening windows let in plenty of light and country air, as well as garden views framed by the thick castle walls. Adding to the view, I could also see the neighbouring church, St Mary’s, an edifice that Henry would also have gazed upon. The bathroom was another pleasant surprise: large, modern, and with amenities to rival the poshest of much newer hotels.
Other Castle Accommodations
The range of Thornbury Castle accommodations covers several categories. Needless to say, the Henry VIII Suite generates a great deal of interest, and for good reason: it’s the actual room that Henry and Anne shared during their stay nearly 500 years ago.
Accessed via the same spiral stone staircase that the couple themselves would have had to climb, an imposing four-poster bed and the same open fireplace and views over the oldest Tudor gardens in England would have been no different in the 1500s. Above it, the Jane Seymour Suite occupies the upper floor of the same tower, boasting views across the Severn Valley toward Wales.
But it’s the Catherine of Aragon Tower Suite that’s the showstopper. Reached by a 77-step spiral staircase, it features 24-carat gilding throughout. Its huge four-poster bed measures an impressive 10 feet wide, the largest of any UK luxury hotel.
Dining at Dusk
That Thornbury Castle Hotel is a truly magical place to stay becomes even more apparent as night falls. Making your way across the courtyard to the aptly named Tower Restaurant, the lights come on and reveal the castle in an entirely different (pardon the pun) light. The stunning courtyard and its gardens, the castle’s tall stone walls, as well as its turrets and chimneys, take on a warmth and a welcome that the daylight hours don’t quite capture.
All of which sets you up perfectly for the dining adventure that awaits. Thornbury Castle’s reputation for seriously good food continues, with Culinary Director David Williams building on the property’s past reputation as one of the best places to dine in the county, if not the country. William’s Michelin-starred background also shines through.
All of which made the choice of dishes easy, especially if you do as I did and go for the six-course tasting menu. An unhurried, carefully paced experience, it’s a superb introduction to the talents of Williams and his team, with some of what arrives on the plate coming from the castle’s own gardens, picked the morning they’re served.
The Tower Restaurant is a Winner
On the evening I dined, the tasting menu opened with an amuse bouche of Jerusalem artichoke with black garlic and blood orange, followed by a crab course featuring raviolo, crab salad, and lobster bisque. The chicken and foie royale, served as a pressé with drumstick and roast black garlic, gave way to a beef sirloin with rösti, spinach, and red wine jus. All of it was delicious.
Two dessert courses closed the proceedings: a playful pina colada reimagined as pineapple jelly, coconut mousse, and caramelized pineapple; then a chocolate soufflé with pistachio ice cream. As Henry himself might have said, coining a word that was in use in the 1500s, “wow!”
While the Tower Restaurant is open to non-guests, if you’re staying (or have a designated driver), opt for the wine pairings. Each course is paired with several thoughtfully chosen wines, from a Kleinkloof Chenin Blanc with the opener, to a Laurent Perrier Rosé Champagne with the crab, wrapping up with a Warre’s Optima 10-year-old Tawny Port. A three-course dinner menu offers an alternative for those who prefer a slightly shorter evening.
Interested in private dining? Book the dungeon dining room, which accommodates up to eight guests for a private four-course dinner and doubles as the hotel’s bonded wine cellar. Afternoon tea is also a big thing here, and is served daily in the lounges or, weather permitting, in the garden.
And yes, it follows the classic British format of finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, and pastries on a tiered stand… but all with a stunning 500-year-old castle in the background.
Tips & Tactics @ Thornbury Castle Hotel, Bristol
Like what you’ve read? Here’s what you need to know about staying at Thornbury Castle Hotel, Gloucestershire:
- Thornbury Castle Hotel is located on Castle Street in Thornbury, Gloucestershire, BS35 1HH.
- It’s approximately two hours from London by car, and roughly 20 minutes from central Bristol.
- Traveling by train? Take the service from London Paddington to Bristol Temple Meads or Bristol Parkway (90 minutes), followed by a 20-minute taxi ride.
- Bringing the helicopter? The castle has its own helipad for those arriving by helicopter (advance notice is required).
- Breakfast is included and served in the restaurant; the full English is excellent, as are the American pancakes.
- Check-in is at 3 pm, check-out is at 11 am.
- Not staying but want an incredible dining experience? The Tower Restaurant is open to non-residents for dinner (first reservation 6 pm, last reservation 8.30pm), and afternoon tea is available daily from 1 pm to 4 pm.
- Ample parking is available on site.
- Dogs are welcome in several designated rooms, with a bed, treats, and a water bowl provided. You can even have them dine with you in the library.
- For more details about prices and packages, visit thornburycastle.co.uk. Alternatively, email [email protected] or call +44 (0) 1454 281 182.
- For ideas and inspiration about fun things to do in Thornbury and nearby Bristol, visit the official Bristol tourism website at https://visitbristol.co.uk.
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Travel and lifestyles writer Bryan Dearsley is Editor of LuxuryUK, a leading source of news and reviews relating to luxury lifestyles and travel in the United Kingdom, as well as RileyMag.com.
